Have you ever tried the Naipaul jacket on? When Patric Hollington designed it twenty years ago, his intention was to give a perfect fit to an unstructured, lightly built garment.
It is the only unlined jacket in hollington’s wardrobe. The inside has no interfacing in order to allow the greatest suppleness and comfort. When the jacket is cut in a thin cloth, it looks like an overshirt; when it is cut in a thicker fabric, it is closer to a casual chic jacket.
Its cut is wide, with large armholes. One can wear it over a shirt for a smart look or over a simple tee-shirt in more relaxed times. It will never feel too tight as it includes a back pleat that allows a great freedom of movement in any situation.
Its collar, now called ‘mao collar’ to make it standard, is actually an ‘officer’ collar. Is it high and lined with a narrow piece of canvas all around the neck.
Five patch pockets are maintained by topstitched seams : three outside and two inside.
Hollington favours double, symmetrical seams to underline the architectural structure of the garment.
The jacket shown here is made of a raw silk tweed. This fabric takes its name from the River Tweed in Scotland. Originally woven from corded woollen threads, tweed shows a multitude of small flaws (‘slubs’) that are its hallmark. To achieve this revisited version, our Tuscan weaver used Indian silk threads. The peculiarity of this raw silk is precisely the irregularity of its material. The imperfections of the black and silver threads give its atypical, very chic personality to the surface of the fabric.
