This Naipaul jacket with Mao collar is cut from a double-faced fabric. This double-sided cotton and wool fabric is woven in the style of a crepe, giving it a hand that's both soft and thick. Warm but by no means heavy, this fabric has a classic grey mottled side and a much more fanciful reverse: a tiny red and blue check on a grey background. A discreet fantasy that gives this unlined jacket much more personality than it appears. To top it all off, the inside of the jacket is completely bias-cut with a navy bias that picks up the colour of the check.
Have you ever tried the Naipaul jacket on? When Patric Hollington designed it twenty years ago, his intention was to give a perfect fit to an unstructured, lightly built garment.
It is the only unlined jacket in hollington’s wardrobe. The inside has no interfacing in order to allow the greatest suppleness and comfort. When the jacket is cut in a thin cloth, it looks like an overshirt; when it is cut in a thicker fabric, it is closer to a casual chic jacket.
Its cut is wide, with large armholes. One can wear it over a shirt for a smart look or over a simple tee-shirt in more relaxed times. It will never feel too tight as it includes a back pleat that allows a great freedom of movement in any situation.
Its collar, now called ‘mao collar’ to make it standard, is actually an ‘officer’ collar. Is it high and lined with a narrow piece of canvas all around the neck.
Six patch pockets are maintained by topstitched seams : three outside and three inside, including two zipped pockets.
Hollington favours double, symmetrical seams to underline the architectural structure of the garment.