This mao-collar Naipaul jacket is cut in a double-sided cotton with irregular stripes. This fabric has been woven in Japan by craftsmen with centuries-old skills. The face is finished like a brushed cotton. The fabric is soft, comfortable and warm. The stripes are a mix of black, white, green and royal blue. The brushed effect gives the stripes an impressionistic look, a sort of painting that blends colours in a soothing way. The reverse side of the fabric picks up the stripes in a much more visible way, giving the fabric an assertive character that is further enhanced by the royal blue bias of the jacket. The hand, both compact and soft, once again demonstrates the incredible quality of textiles from Japan.
Have you ever tried the Naipaul jacket on? When Patric Hollington designed it twenty years ago, his intention was to give a perfect fit to an unstructured, lightly built garment.
It is the only unlined jacket in hollington’s wardrobe. The inside has no interfacing in order to allow the greatest suppleness and comfort. When the jacket is cut in a thin cloth, it looks like an overshirt; when it is cut in a thicker fabric, it is closer to a casual chic jacket.
Its cut is wide, with large armholes. One can wear it over a shirt for a smart look or over a simple tee-shirt in more relaxed times. It will never feel too tight as it includes a back pleat that allows a great freedom of movement in any situation.
Its collar, now called ‘mao collar’ to make it standard, is actually an ‘officer’ collar. Is it high and lined with a narrow piece of canvas all around the neck.
Six patch pockets are maintained by topstitched seams : three outside and three inside, including two zipped pockets.
Hollington favours double, symmetrical seams to underline the architectural structure of the garment.